Motorcycle touring in Italy | How-to guide

Italy really is a fantastic place to ride a bike. With the Alps and Dolomites in the north and the Appenine range running right down the centre of the country, you've got fantastic twisty roads pretty much everywhere, and yet you're rarely more than a couple of hours from dipping your toes in the sea. The food and wine is outstanding, there's more history than you could shake a stick at, the roads are generally wonderful and the weather's good. It's a country of contrasts – the north is industrial, sophisticated, with a cooler climate, while the south is more agricultural, less well-off, more mediterranean in outlook and behaviour – but wherever you go you'll find bikes are welcome.

Great roads, great scenery. This is in the hills above Genoa in the north west.

Speed limits and fines in Italy

Nothing complicated here... Autostrade (motorway) limits are 130 km/h (80mph) in dry weather, 110km/h (68mph) in rain (‘In caso di pioggia’) or poor visibility. Motorways have green signs, not blue as in France and Spain, by the way.

Strada Statale (main roads) have blue signs and are mostly limited to 90km/h (56mph), dropping to 80km/h (50mph) in rain or bad weather.

Some dual carriageways (especially city bypasses) are also Strada Statale but are limited to 110km/h (68mph), dropping to 90km/h (56mph) in rain.

Strada Provinciale (local roads) have white signs and are normally limited to 90km/h (56mph).

Built up areas normally have a 50km/h (31mph) limit unless otherwise indicated – limits will start as you pass the town/village sign, and end when you pass the same sign with a diagonal line through it.

There will be various other limits, including lots of suburban 70km/h (43mph) stretches and an increasing amount of 30km/h (19mph) roads in residential areas in particular.

You'll also see the occasional round blue sign with a speed indicated in white. This is the MINIMUM speed for that stretch of road, or for that lane if it's on a gantry sign on the motorway.

Speed cameras are common in Italy, often flagged with a sign saying 'controllo electronico della velocita’, along with average speed cameras on bigger roads. Manned traffic stops are common too – they don't need an excuse, they can just stop you for a document check whenever they like.

If you do get stopped for speeding the Police or Carabinieri (the first is a civil force, the second is part of the military) will issue you a ticket and can take 25% of the fine on the spot, for which they must issue a receipt. Some fines will be reduced by 30% if paid within five days, and if you haven't paid within 60 days then it will increase sharply, often to double the original amount.

There are various ways to pay an Italian speeding fine online but some of the third party ones will charge you extra for the pleasure. The best way to pay is via the Italian government's own payment site, which you'll find here. It's in Italian only, but if you use the Chrome browser you can right click and ask it to translate to English. You can do the same on your phone but you'll probably need to download a translation app if you don't already have one. It's also possible to take your ticket to a bank, post office, or one of the shops, bars and newsagents that display the 'pagoPA' logo.

Watch out for signs like these signalling a restricted zone – you can be fined for entering without a permit. Image: Wikimedia Commons

Beware of Zona a Traffico Limitato / ZTE

In many residential areas you'll find what's called a Zona a Traffico Limitato – ZTE for short.  These are areas where access is restricted to residents, permit holders and delivery access only. Anyone else is fined for entering – they're policed by automated cameras. In theory ZTLs are clearly signposted, but in practice it's very, very easy to accidentally wander into one, especially if you're following sat-nav instructions rather than actually looking where you're going...

What you must take with you to ride in Italy

Mostly it's the same as anywhere else in Europe – check out our riding guide here –  but to recap the basics, wehen riding a motorcycle in Italy you’ll need:

• Passport. It must have been issued less than ten years before you arrive in the EU, and have at least three months' validity on your planned return date.

• Licence. There’s no need for an International Driving Permit (IDP) in Italy unless you still have an old-style paper licence rather than a photocard, or if your licence was issued in Gibraltar, the Channel Islands or the Isle of Man. In those cases, you will need a type 1968 IDP.

• Bike documents. You must have the originals not photocopies with you, including a form V103 if the log book/V5c isn't in your name. If you don't have the V5c at all you'll need a V103B as well to show in its place. You don't need an insurance green card, but you will need your insurance certificate.

• Helmet. Compulsory at all times, regardless of what some of the locals might do...

• Hi-viz gilet. Keep it under the seat for emergencies.

• UK sticker. The old GB stickers are no longer valid for European travel, so unless your number plate has a UK identifier AND a Union flag on it, you need to add a UK sticker.

• Prescription glasses if you need them for driving/riding.

Do I need travel insurance to ride in Italy?

Just like any holiday, a trip on a motorcycle – be it in the UK, Europe or beyond – can be ruined by delays, lost documents, illness and more. There are plenty of travel insurance options, but you need to make sure you get a policy that includes riding motorcycles, and if it does, that it's for bikes of the engine size you'll be riding (many only cover up to 250cc). At its most basic, you should look for insurance that provides cover for the following: 

• Medical expenses

• Loss or theft of personal possessions

• Lost or delayed luggage

• Loss of your passport and other documents

• Travel delays and disruptions

• Having to cut your holiday short

In addition though, if you’re taking a motorcycle (or you're renting one while you’re away) be sure that your insurer will cover you for any medical expenses, should you have an accident. You must also think about where you’re riding – some policies won’t cover you if you’re trail or enduro riding, or if you’re on a race-track. Remember – this isn’t about your bike being covered, it’s about your medical expenses, should the worst happen.

If you're only going away once, a single-trip policy will probably be all you need, but also consider an annual policy, which could extend to cover your family holidays too (a good insurer should also be able to offer cover for your whole family).

Do I need a GHIC / EHIC card in Italy?

Whether or not you opt for travel insurance, you should carry a Global Health Insurance Card (GHIC). This replaces the old EHIC card, and works in the same way, covering you for emergency medical care in the EU and EEA. If you don't have one, you'll still get cared for but you'll probably face a big bill on release. Apply for your GHIC card with the NHS here.

What is the emergency services number in Italy?

If you need to get hold of the emergency services in Italy, the main number to call is the same as elsewhere in Europe: 112. This should get you through to an operator who can answer in the local language, English, or French. In practice the multilingual service is a bit patchy in Italy so far, but it's better than nothing.  

Where to get fuel in Italy

In common with just about everywhere, the cheapest fuel in Italy is usually from supermarkets and the most expensive at motorway services. So far so good – try and avoid filling on a motorway if possible. There are a few oddities though…

Firstly, it's not uncommon for smaller fuel stations in Italy to close completely on Sundays, and for several hours each afternoon. This is especially true out in the country, but you'll also find it in cities.

Out in the sticks it can be a loooong way between fuel stations, so you might want to fill up when you can, even if you're not in immediate danger of running out. Unmanned stations are becoming more common in Italy, and paying isn't always as straightforward as it might be. Rather than paying at the pump itself, you're more likely to have to pay at a central terminal, choosing the pump you'll be filling at. Usually you'll pay via chip and pin, not contactless, and you'll have to pre-authorise a maximum amount, usually 100 euros. Then when you fill up, you'll be refunded the difference.

Fuel can be frighteningly expensive, especially on motorways, and especially at attended pumps. €1.874 a litre is pricey now, but this was taken more than ten years ago!

The problem is that can take a while (sometimes several days) so by the time you've filled up a few times you might accidentally go over your card's limit and be refused at the next stop. So it makes sense to have at least one alternative card, and to choose to pay at the cash desk wherever it's available, rather than automatically choosing to pay at the pump. Some payment terminals will also accept cash, so it's always worth having a wad of notes as a backup, but keep the notes small – most machines won't give change so if you stick a 50 euro note in and only need 25 euros' worth, you'll just get a credit note for the balance to use next time. Not a lot of good if you're only passing through...

Finally, attended pumps are still quite common, even on the motorways – and that bumps the price up enormously. If you fill at an attended pump – even if you fill it yourself without waiting for the attendant to do it for you – it will really hit you in the wallet. Look for a sign saying 'Servito' or 'Serv' for short, and avoid those pumps, heading for the ones marked 'Self' instead...

Navigating toll roads in Italy

Most motorways in Italy are toll roads, along with many of the mountain tunnels connecting Italy with neighbouring countries in the north. In general they're classic ticket-and-tollbooth setups, and you can pay with a credit or debit card as you leave the motorway (do NOT lose your ticket or you'll be hit with a hefty surcharge).

There are a few stretches of motorway in the north of Italy like the A33 Asti-Cuneo and the A36, A59 and A60 northwest of Milan that are now free-flow toll roads with no physical tollbooth. For those you need to either pay as soon as possible online, or ideally pay with a motorway tag.

There are plenty of options for motorway toll tags in Italy but for occasional use a Ulys Classic e-toll tag is a good bet, with the 2.40 euros a month subscription only payable in the months when you actually use it. The tag can be used in France, Spain and Portugal as well (for an extra subscription), which helps keep life simple.

Before you plan a trip using loads of Autostrade though, be aware that it's an expensive way to travel – bikes pay the same as cars in Italy so, for example, the 270km from San Remo to Milan will cost you about 26 euros. That's about the same as it'll cost in fuel at 50mpg. A similar distance in France might be closer to 15 euros.

How to ride in Italian cities

Italians aren't necessarily bad drivers, but they do often have some bad habits, especially tailgating, impatient overtaking, and trying to fit their cars into gaps that aren't there.

Oh, and almost constant use of the horn.

If you've ridden a lot in any big city, you might think you'll be well prepared for Italian urban riding. If you've survived the madness of the Paris Périphérique in rush hour, you'll think, 'bring it on'. In both cases you'd be hopelessly wrong.

I was once in a bar in Italy, explaining my theory of Parisian traffic lights to a friend: Red means go if no one's looking, Amber means go, Green means kill. A guy at the next table leaned over and said, "In Italy, it's a little different. Red, it means go. Orange is just a pretty colour. Green, you got to be really careful, because on the other side some son of a bitch is going on red..." We laughed, but he was right.

Anywhere there's a certain number of traffic lanes, somehow there'll actually be at least one more lane than what's marked on the floor. So there won't be space to filter, but that won't stop the locals anyway, whether on scooters or bikes – they'll just skittle their way through, bouncing off cars and buses and using the pavements as overtaking lanes. On a big bike though, especially with luggage, you may as well be in a car for all the chance you have of cutting through traffic.

Getting caught up in, say, Milan on a hot summer's day, melting away in your full riding kit, is something you only need to do once. Likewise, any day's riding in the Campania region (Naples in particular) where you finish the day upright and in one piece should be considered a major result.

As you pass the sign on the left, your road has priority until signalled otherwise. As you pass this sign on the right, your road no longer has priority and you must give way to traffic joining from the right.

Traffic from the right has priority in Italy

One thing that can catch people out in Italy is that in many situations traffic coming at you from the right has priority – and that includes many roundabouts.

In theory it should be easy to tell the difference: if you pass a sign with a yellow diamond and a white border, that means your road has priority.

If it has a black diagonal line through it, you don't have priority.

At junctions if there's a clear stop or give-way line and signage, you don't have priority, and if there isn't, you do.

In practice it's not as easy as that – vertical signage is often erratic, and white lines on the road are often worn to the point of invisibility. So the golden rule is to assume that you might not have priority, and that everyone else on the road is actively trying to kill you and you might need to take avoiding action at any time.

Just getting to Italy is a big part of the appeal. This is the Petit St Bernard Pass between Bourg Saint Maurice in France and the Val d'Aosta in Italy, and it's bloody gorgeous.

Food, drink and accommodation in Italy

One of the best bits about travelling in Italy is the food – even motorway service station grub is usually better than you'll find in a lot of proper restaurants elsewhere in Europe – so forgive us if we wax a bit lyrical....

Firstly, if you order a beer or an aperitif early in the evening, you'll often find it comes with a surprisingly generous side order of savoury snacks, to the point that if you have a couple more drinks you might not have room to eat later!

Assuming you are going to eat out though, Italian menus can be a bit confusing for foreigners. If you're looking for meat and two veg, look elsewhere – you're not going to find it.

In theory a full Italian meal starts with an Aperitivo (usually a drink with some nibbles), then Antipasto (a light starter, maybe cold meats or smoked salmon), then the Primo Piatto (a first hot course of risotto, pasta or soup) followed by the Secondo Piatto (probably meat or fish, maybe in a sauce) with a Contorno (side dish) of vegetables, and/or an Insalata (green salad) that you order separately.

Then it's time for cheese and fruit before you get to the Dolce dessert course. Naturally you'll wash those down with a strong black (never white) coffee, often with a brandy chaser, followed by a Digestivo (usually a shot of liqueur) to finish.

You might wonder why all Italians aren't the size of houses given all that scoffing, but of course in practice most people don't do the whole menu in one go except on special occasions… it's perfectly okay to pick and choose a couple of courses.

If you don't fancy wading through a complex menu at all, you can always find a pizza, whether in a sit-down restaurant or by the slice (pizza al taglio) from a roadside seller. And you shouldn't see that as a second-best option because when we say pizza, we mean real pizza – thin crust, fresh ingredients, usually baked in a wood-fired oven – not the lardy, mattress-thick American-style version you usually get in the UK.

To give you some idea how seriously Italians take their pizza, when Domino's tried to move into Italy a while back, every single branch was bankrupt and closed down within a few years.

Oh, and don't ask for pineapple as a topping in Italy, unless you wanna sleep with the fishes...

Wherever you go for a sit-down meal, there'll almost always be a Coperta (cover charge) of a few euros per person added to the final bill in Italy (anywhere that specifically says, 'No Cover Charge' on the door will be a tourist trap and should probably be avoided). On the other hand it's not normal to leave a tip, except maybe just a few coins.

Accommodation's easy enough to find in Italy with plenty of hotels, B+Bs and campsites in most areas, plus you can usually wing it and just turn up rather than booking in advance. Although don't try that in Tuscany in July or August unless you fancy sleeping in a Pensilina dell'Autobus (bus shelter)... You can book accommodation in Italy through all the usual booking websites and apps, but for something a bit different, have a look at the Agriturismo website here.

Do NOT leave Italy without trying as many flavours of ice cream as your waistband will allow.

One thing you'll notice if you park up early evening and go for a wander around the town or village is that seemingly everyone else will be doing the same. This is the traditional Passegiata – after work people will put on their glad rags and just stroll about, seeing and being seen, stopping for a coffee or a gelato (ice cream) and talking incessantly. You'll see whole families out together, as well as groups of flirting teens and knots of gossiping pensioners, and there's generally a very relaxed atmosphere about it all. The further south you go, you'll also find that generally people will be out on the streets later and later in the evenings – to the point that it sometimes all seems to be kicking off around midnight.

Grab yourself an ice cream – Italian ice cream is the best in the world, happily – and join in.

If you’d like to chat about this article or anything else biking related, join us and thousands of other riders at the Bennetts BikeSocial Facebook page or at the BikeClub forum.

Campsite. Swimming Pool. Race Track. A great Italian weekend.